West of the Sé Cathedral, the Church of Saint Francis of Assis, is one of the most interesting buildings in Old Goa. A small chapel was built on this site by eight Franciscian friars as their arrival in 1517. In 1521 it was replaced by a Church consecrated to the Holy Ghost. This church was subsequently rebuilt in 1661, and only the doorway of the old building was left intact to be incorporated into a new structure |
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which is in the Mañueline style, whose heavy ornamentation stands out like a sore thumb on an otherwise plain classical façade. Typical nautical themes include navigators' globes flanking the trefoil arch and a Greek cross above the royal coat of arms, which used to adorn the sails of Vasco da Gama and other Portuguese explorers' ships. The interior of the church is no longer used for worship, and has a much older and more faded feel then its neighbours. Sculpted tombstones of Portuguese hidalgos pave the floor of the nave, while the walls and ceilings are plastered with frescoes and floral patterns rendered indelicate green, pink, yellow and gold. These latter designs are particularly well executed, perhaps because their Islamic style - derived from the Muslim - influenced art of Spain and Portugal - may have been familiar to local Goan artists. Less successful, but still of interest, are the painted wooden panels lining the chancel next to the high altar, which illustrate episodes from the life and teachings of Saint Francis of Assisi. The side chapels have richly carved, images. The retable of the main altar presents the image of kneeling Francis embraced by Christ Crucified. The large octogonal tabernacle is delicately carved: it is supported by the four Evangelists; it has small doors which are withdrawn when the Blessed Sacrament is exposed. The pulp it has a beautiful painting of Francis while preaching to the fish. As part of extensive renovation work currently being under taken in this church, new, elaborately carved panels have been installed on the walls flanking the altar, crafted by local artisans using traditional motifs. Finally, the gilt reredos, which envelops the east wall of the church, centers on two large figures of Saint Francis and Jesus, beneath which are inscribed the vows of the Franciscan Order : "Poverty, Humanity and Obedience". |