GoaNOW - March, 2000(Carnival)

King Momo arrives ...the signal chant of Goa's most colourful and frolicsome event still rings in many a ear, flooding memories of round-top caps of colourful paper with a gonddo (bunch) of paper strips…

Ghumott, drum and cymbals in hand, the villagers would go around singing entertaining songs in the village. The guitar in the cities…Of fights with powder-packed bullets, masked youngsters, boys and men dressed as women…powdering every female in sight.

The famous Suisacho khell at the Suis Chapel at Rajvaddo in Mapusa. "Rane martai pakleanku, Pakle martai ranneanku". At Carmarkhazan and Morod, little devils in black attire, would run after girls to hit them with their long black tails.

How the East was won The irresistible sound of khell (Konkani folk plays) filling the village air in Salcette… as performing group moved from door to door, performing on the bare floor.

The Carnival has travelled a long way since then, getting wearier, increasingly commercial and less charming by the year. Well, one has nearly forgotten, which year we are in celebrating Goa's famed Carnival in its post Liberation format.

The King Momo elect for year 2000 is Carlos Fernandes says that we "cannot compare our Carnival with that of Brazil, where women go half naked…In Goa, there is a code of conduct…Carnival is about freedom in choosing the way you want to dress, of course, without looking obscene."

Piggy ways The colourful parade of 64 floats was flagged off by Tourism Minister Ms Victoria Fernandes at about 4 pm on Sabado Gordo (Fat Saturday) below the Mandovi bridge. The grand spectacle, after entertaining the large crowds lined on both sides of the barricaded city roads, culminated at the Campal parade grounds.

The Directorate spent Rs.15 lakh towards the prizes and infrastructure at all the four cities of Goa.A special committee screened the floats, whose theme was "Millennium 2000". But it conveniently overlooked the ban on alcohol-oriented ads and allowed Belo, Kingfisher and Froster from the alcoholic lane to make merry with their loud messages. The "censors" only ensured that the word "beer" was mentioned nowhere. Of course, oil companies, JK tyres, tourism, etc. formed the bulk of the parade.

Here and there mingled queerly attired, masked individuals. Of course, most of them presented grotesque appearances, which hardly looked lively or cheerful as it should be in a Carnival parade. A black-hooded guy towed a coffin in which a devil slept; another devil was on fire atop another float. A blood stained, crudely armed group too made the scene and the cops had to intervene to make them look less intimidating. Wonder how the Brazilian and German television crews, filming Goa's Carnival, found the scene.

Return of "royalty" There were some foreigners too to provisw relief to the otherwise monotonous scene of young dancers doing the steps with hardly any enthusiasm. There was a "foreign king and queen" riding on horseback, preceding a bridal couple riding an elephant. The Europeans definitely showed some creativity. There were a few junk cars in the rally. What caught the eye was a pig on a poke carried by a man and his wife.

Traditional Sao Joao by Siolkars Of course, the float cheered most by everyone was the one put up by the St Anthony's Club of Siolim, depicting the traditional Goan Sao Joao festival.Youngsters with flowery coronets jumped in the well to the peals of "Viva, Sao Joao", a boat followed, women distributed vodde (puri) as they passed by and Pietro's band, with ghumttam (country drums) and cymbals besides the modern instruments, provided typical Goan music and songs.

Before King Momo and his entourage made their appearance, the River Mandovi had a sparkling splash of a wind-surfing competition, organised by Michael Martins of Taleigao. The entertainment lineup began with the band striking the Alvorada at 5 am on Fat Saturday; Roseferns's Konkani Khelltiatr Xim on March 5 at 7 PM; Konkani Musical show "Fulamcho Turo 2000" by Jr Nelson and his group of popular tiatrists on March 6 at 7 pm, Fancy Dress competition on March 7 at 5.30 pm, followed by Inter Collegiate, Indian Group Dance competition, at Panjim's Church Square.

On the same the 16th traditional and original open air Red & Black Dance will be held at the Clube Nacional with non-stop dancing music. The parade shifts to Margao on Sunday, March 5, Vasco on Monday, March 6 and Mapusa on Tuesday, March 7. Quepem too is joining the Carnival stream with a mini float parade on march 7, for which the Tourism minister Ms Victoria Fernandes has earmarked Rs.20,000. Mapusa will have sumptious celebrations with fancy dress competitions and a beat show. Vasco will indulge in exhibition football on Sunday at 9.30 am at the renovated Tilak Maidan with Vasco veterans taking on the Salgaocar Veterans.

Thousands of dance-crazy Goans are attracted by the traditional Carnival balls like the Festa de Leques at Sinquetim, The Tourism Dance at the Church Square began by Bachico Branco and Alvares, Varca Carnival Dance by Alemaos, Goa Goes Rio by Fanquito and the famous red &Black Dance by Roberto Alvares at Club Nacional in Panjim. In course of years, upcountry tourists started flocking in. After a couple of hot drinks, the tourists began causing a ruckus, and had to be shunned. So, quite often, one sees a big crowds of guys alone dancing outside the halls or shamianas.

Today the venue's been shifted to other quarters. The Carnival can be watches by guests at any time of the year at the five-star resorts with showfolk like Fanquito, Tavares, Serrao and Leslie being their content generators. They even travel upcountry to organise such carnivals for hotels elsewhere.

The passing of the Anti-smoking Act passed recently, ensured that the cigarette companies had abstained with their commercial floats. The ban on smoking and consumption of alcohol by the participants during the performance on the float parade, was largely observed.

The conch call of Siolim Of course, every one longs for the fun that Carnival spelt once ago. But how can it be achieved if people just stand behind the barricades along the parade route, gawking at the skimpily clad girls atop the float or a lovely leg among the dancers? If they have to enact a Rio or Mardi Gras, one need not bare and dare all as they do with skimpy outfits worn overseas, but everyone should participate and enjoy the fun and experience fully.

Meanwhile, in Brazil the world famous Rio Carnival kicked off on Friday. This year's unofficial Carnival Queen is Tiazinha, a scantily-clad dominatrix, whose trademark is a black eye mask and riding crop to whip her admirers into line. The official theme this year is "Brazil's 500-year anniversary".

JOEL D'SOUZA