FORTS

Continuing with our series on Goa's ancient forts, this month we have the beautiful Fort of Reis Magos, which has been receiving increased attention in recent years, with one party even ready to undertake its conservation.

GOA'S historic forts make news once in a while but for reasons other than the ones they had been built centuries ago by the Portuguese, Marathas and even Muslim rulers. The picturesque 450-year-old Reis Magos fort built on the south-eastern extremity of the Nerul-Verem plateau, on the northern bank of the Mandovi river, has the resort barons craving constantly to set up shop at the magnificent spot, which overlooks the majestic Mandovi and the State capital.

East India Hotels, Delhi, Palm Hotels of India Ltd, Goa, and Ramada Hotels had submitted their proposals for the fort. Last year, the UK-based Lady Hamlyn Trust agreed to bear the cost of the conservation of the unused fort. In return for the costly restoration exercise, the Trust merely asked to be allowed to use the upper part as a private residence for a period of 15 years. Since the earlier attempts to convert the fort into a heritage hotel had been shot down a couple of times, the government naturally took time to review the matter and keep the options open for other players, who would be equally eager to submit their bids.

Steeped in history

The construction of the Reis Magos Fort in the North Goa taluka of Bardez, about two miles North-East of Aguada, began in 1551 and was probably completed in 1554 during the reign of Viceroy Dom Afonso de Noronha. Even before Afonso de Albuquerque could conquer Goa, Reis Magos was a Muslim stronghold, controlled by Adilshah of Bijapur. The fort was expanded on a number of occasions and re-erected in 1707 during the reign of Viceroy Caetano de Mello e Castro. In times gone by, the Gaspar Dias fort, which has since disappeared, was facing it from across the Mandovi river in Panjim.

The fort was defended by 33 guns and a small garrison. A spring, following a little way to the East, provided it with excellent, potable water. Adding importance and beauty to the emerald surroundings, is the Reis Magos church, which rises above a large flight of steps, at the foot of the hill, on which the fort stands. The church was built on the ruins of a pagoda in 1550 by the Franciscan missionaries and its façade, sanctuary and other places bear a crown and the royal coat of arms.

Heritage hotel concept

The Reis Magos fort cannot match the vastness and solidity of several other forts dotting Goa's long coastline and the river mouths. But what no other fort can match is the splendid view, which it commands, its proximity to Panjim city and its ideal location at the gateway to North Goa's resort belt. Moreover, while most of the forts have either kissed the dust or have been rendered unsuitable to habitation, Reis Magos is still in a shape amenable to conservation.

Known as the Royal Fort, it was where the political prisoners were jailed once, after its value as a defense structure had diminished. Came Liberation in 1961, and there was no political prisoner left as an inmate of the fortified structure. So the fort logically joined the 42 sites of ancient monuments in the list of the State Archives and Archaeology Department. Subsequently, the idea dawned that there wouldn't be a fitter spot than Reis Magos for a heritage hotel, by virtue of its matchless view. This fact prompted the authorities to denotify it. The government even toyed with the plan to turn the fort into a heritage hotel but a High Court ruling stumped the proposal.

After Liberation, the Reis Magos fort was converted into a sub-jail, where under-trials were lodged. But on July 2, 1993, it remained a lock-up no more. The steep pathway to the fort, blocked by a corroded gate, is covered with weeds and bushes. Symbolically almost, there is a handcuff locking the gate, locking out curious visitors, many of whom are foreign tourists en route to Sinquerim-Candolim via the riverine road passing by the panoramic Quegdevelim beach.

Verem, the village where the fort stands, seems to be waking all of a sudden. The riverine road is being widened in a hurry, and the afforestation of the hill is being carried out in the fort's vicinity. These are unmistakable signs that amidst the abundant greenery covering the fort's laterite walls, some new idea is vegetating.