| Saligao : Of foxes and vixens... | |
| Nestling on the west coast of India, where the clear turquoise
waters of the Arabian Sea lace the shores of beautiful beaches with cream
crested waves lies a little piece of earth called Goa. A place where one sees a vibrant
mix of colors the brilliant scarlet, the flawless white and the orange of
bougainvillea, the emerald green of the paddy fields, the blue waves of
the sea and the sun soaked Goan Beaches edged with lush green
palms. Blended in this setup is a village called Saligao. A leisurely drive from Panjim to Calangute reveals the pride of the village, the 125 years old, parish church of Mae de Deus, a spiky Gothic-revival architecture which speaks for itself and the people. |
Church of Mae De Deus, circa 1873 |
| Saligao cradles a population of
about 5000. It is surrounded by the villages of Parra, Guirim, Sangolda,
Pilerne, Candolim, Calangute and Nagoa and is in Bardez Taluka of Goa. It
is 10 kms from Panjim the capital of Goa, 6kms from Mapusa the capital of
Bardez Taluka, and 3 kms from the world famous Calangute beach.That
charming wayside village on your way to Calangute, has at some stretches,
open paddy fields and at others, coconut groves lining the narrow roads.
In Saligao small typically Goan homes, are nestled close to each other
surrounded by greenery and interspersed by tiny pathways that form a
confusing maze. Saligao has never been the seat of any ruling dynasty; no stirring political events with far-reaching repercussions have ever taken place here. Its history records no battles, and not occupying any strategic geographical position, it has not at any point of time been of key importance in the defence of Bardez. But Saligao has an appeal distinctly its own. The village's history does not boast of great personalities, though there have been a number of Saligaonkars who have made a mark in the professions of medicine, engineering and pedagogy and several who have occupied positions of responsibility in state, municipal, port, railway and business administration. And there have been some in the artistic field like Francis Newton Souza who now lives in the U.S. | |
![]() Temple view... |
The origin of the name Saligao has
not been ascertained. Before the village came under Portuguese rule, it
was known as Salgaon. It was the Portuguese who Lusitanised it to Saligao
by adding an 'i' to 'sal'. Sal with its variants 'sol' and 'sil' is an
Indo-European root- word meaning wooded or forested area. So could Saligao
mean a wooded village or a woodland considering that the forest cover is
still high in the village? Could it have been derived from the word "sal'
reinforced by the one time profusion of sal trees in the village? Or could
it be an adaptation of the name Sylvia or Silvia which is the feminine of
Silvius, meaning living in the woods? Saligao is a community of Goankars who are either Catholics or Hindus. They mostly live in harmony with each other and show remarkable tolerance and respect for each others religion. The Catholics were actually converted to this religion after the conquest of Goa by the Portuguese General Alfonso De Albuquerque. Though most are of the Brahmin [priestly] caste there are quite a few belonging to other castes. Originally a farming community, Saligao later turned to sugarcane as a subsistence crop and a rotation of cereals to keep the soil fertile. With the extension of the sugarcane plantations, the economy of the village underwent a radical change. It was these vast sugarcane plantations that led the neighbouring villages to dub Salgaokars as 'unshelantle kole', meaning foxes from the cane plantations. Today the cane plantations have vanished to be replaced by paddy.Many of the 'unshelantle kole' too have migrated to East Africa, and to other former colonies and countries around the world. Today you can find Saligaokars on all 5 continents of the globe. But in most aspects, life in Saligao has not changed. Though modernisation has set in, it does not make itself evident. The older generation still walk or cycle to the 'tinto' or market place complete with walking-stick and hat, occasionally stopping to exchange a bit of news or greeting with a fellow villager. |
| In many ways it continues to be a
tight community, content to keep the village going amongst themselves with
some programme or the other throughout the year. Activities are centered around the Church of Mae de Deus and the Saligao Institute, founded in 1929. The first English medium schools in Goa probably started here with the founding of the St Mary's Boys School in 1900 and later the Mater Dei Institution in 1909. The St Mary's Girls School, the first boarding school for girls in Goa, is today the Lourdes Convent, one of the foremost schools in Goa. What the village of Saligao loses in hectares, it gains in compactness, neatness and easy accessibility. One of the landmarks of the village is the Church of Mae de Deus, built in 1873, when the image of Our Lady Mother of God was installed in the church after being brought from the plague-ridden village of Daugim. Built in Gothic style, it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful churches in Goa. | |
| Amongst the many amusing tales of Saligao is
probably one connected with All Souls Day when people throng to the church
and cemetery to pray for the soul of their dead. It was a tradition that
the bells of the church be tolled at intervals of every half-hour on that
day. The job fell upon the village lads and who, having nothing to do,
while not at the bells, began displacing things from one house to another
during the night. Through a series of these exchanges between one house and another, the boys succeeded in creating an eerie illusion, as if the souls of the dead had indeed visited the homes on the night of November 1.The practice of displacing, in good taste, continues in most Goan villages, though for some reason the tolling of the bells through the night stands discontinued. |
![]() Sormonnchi Zhor ... Click to capture the splendour. The Saligao Spring bears a lush cover during the monsoons |
The Saligao of today is no different. Electricity and
water conections have reached all the houses. Politically, the elected
representatives have rarely been from Saligao with the result that development
in the village is at a minimum. [Note, this was the position when the article
was published in 1988. Changes on these fronts have since taken place, and
Saligao is also the name of a constituency in the legislative assembly from
where the current chief minister hails.] But the villagers have always stayed
united as was evident from the recent protests against the government's attempts
to take over the famous Salmona Spring, situated in the village, for tourism.
The new generation of Saligaokars have ranged out far and wide. Never
the type to complain, they maintain a leisurely attitude at times, typical of
the Goan spirit, but have their priorities right -- on top of the list being the
welfare of the village.(*)
CM Dr Wilfred de Souza
expressed his yearnings in Herald.
"You see, Goa has to be made
the Goa of the old. Only then our people will come back. Take my village of
Saligao. I want it to remain the village of Saligao.There is an industrial
estate up on the hill at Pilerne, but it's not affecting life in the village. No
huge constructions and things like that."
Disclaimer:The facts and figures quoted, stories and anecdotes appearing and all other content has been taken from individual contribution. Their sources and contents have not been verified. However efforts have been taken not to hurt the feeling of any individual or community. If any objectionable content exists at Saligao Tinto [:-)], please inform Ashley Delaney
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