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Balmy
Bambolim The Holy Cross has put this otherwise
somnolent village on the international map. By Alister
Miranda

Bambolim is
Tiswadi or Ilhas Taluka's cute
little village. Since long it has been made known by the
Miraculous Cross, and more recently by the sprawling Goa
Medical Complex, the AIR Super Power Transmitter and the
Military camp. Hence passersby traversing via the NH 17
highway may be compelled to believe that whatever meets the
eye is all that comprises Bambolim. Actually what one sees
once one climbs up the asphalted highway slopes from Santa
Cruz on the North and Siridao on the South is the 'synthentic'
side of Bambolim, which a blue-blooded Bambolkar is hardly
proud of. And nothing you fleetingly glance at on its now
concretized plateau prepares you for the profound scenic
interlude that its rustically beating heart
emits.
Nature has
beautifully hidden the actual village among verdant hills in a
valley that seemingly runs down and bathes in the sea on the
Western frontier. A road that starts from GMC's western end
and runs along the compound wall, dives headlong into the
scenic precincts of the village.
A typical village
scene appears to be naturally enacted. Farmers in the field,
children playing with gay abandon, women doing the daily
chores in true Goan style and music and mouth-watering aromas
filtering from big and small houses and filling the cool air.
Fofai Vaddo and Igorje
Vaddo that house 52 Catholic families form the integral part
of the village, being near the Church. Nauxim and Oddgaim are
closer to the beach and the sea. The Bambolim Panchayat,
comprising these four wards, is clubbed with the
Bambolim-Curca-Talaulim Panchayat. Since Fofai and Igorje
Vaddo are predominantly inhabited by Catholics who supposedly
are the first settlers, everything revolves around the Church
of Our Lady of Belem (Bethlehem). Villagers inform that not
too long ago just 30 houses stood around the Church, so much
so, that when the image of the Virgin Mary would be taken
house to house for veneration, the entire round would take
exactly one month. Parish Priest Fr Arlino De Mello, who is
assisted by two retired priests, Fathers Herculano Pereira and
Sebastian D'Souza, describes his parishioners as vibrant and
devout. The feast of Our Lady of Bethlehem is celebrated on
the first Sunday after the Feast of the Three Kings in
January.
Fofai and
Igorje vaddo are serene and verdant, with paddy, sweet
potatoes and vegetable grown in its fertile soil.
Formerly, Bambolim was part of the Siridao parish, with
the Church being on the site where today Siridao's cemetery
stands. Around 1610, Agustinian Archbishop Dom Frei Aleixo de
Menezes declared Bambolim as a separate parish, and in 1616 a
new Church was built on a hill with the monetary support of
Gonsalo Pinto da Fonseca. In 1619, Archbishop Dom Frei
Cristovao de Sa e Lisboa elevated it to a Parochial Church.
But the Church structure which had an underground tunnel
lasted for two and a half centuries. The hill on which the old
Church lay is today known as Orth de Vigar or Padigaracho
Dongor. The Comunidade de Bambolim then built a chapel in
1851. This chapel was raised to a Church in 1825 and
consecrated to Our Lady of Belem. Confraria Nossa Senhora De
Belem is its confraternity.
Bambolkars in the past, especially the Catholics,
married within the bowl-like village. Whether a marriage or a
feast, they would wholeheartedly participate and celebrate.
Even for a village Cross feast they used to be staged a
Konkani Tiatr, mostly written by the ageing Luis Joaquim
Monteiro.
On the balmy side of
Bambolim are Nauxim and Odd-gaim; both dominated by the Hindu
Gawda community. Considering their proximity to the sea and
the large number of coconut trees among which they dwell, it
is no surprise that quite a number of these residents have
taken up fishing and toddy tapping as a means of livelihood.
Formerly all were Christian Gawdas, but somewhere early in the
last century they opted for mass reconversions. But many
Hindus in Nauxim retained their Catholic first names, so even
today one finds a Lawrence, Gabriel or a Constancio among
them. Only four families in Nauxim chose to remain Catholic.
Oddgaim is popular for its spring and the beach, to which the
Bambolkars religiously flock to every summer for their annual
salt bath. In bygone days, people from neighbouring Santa Cruz
and Merces would come and camp there for seven days in
thatched huts. The placid waters make the beach extremely safe
for fun and frolic. The Bambolim Beach Resort lies on its
threshold.
Bambolim's
most famous son is Goa and Daman's Archbishop Dom Raul Nicolau
Gonsalves, who is also the Patriarch of the East Indies. In
1992, on his episcopal silver jubilee, the entire village
proudly felicitated the Archbishop. Some may opine that
the GMC complex is its crowning glory. But at what cost?
The'crown' appears to be ill gotten. The once-flourishing
Comun-idade de Bambolim was virtually raped for this purpose,
and with that vanished the thick virgin foliage and the
bountiful cashew trees. Seven lakh square metres of Comunidade
land was acquired by the government of Goa for a pittance,
only 65 paise per square metre, to give birth to the medical
college complex. In 1966, the Comunidade filed a suit against
the government for enhancement of the amount. After the
District, Lower and High Courts ruled in favour of the
Communidade, the government moved the case to the Supreme
Court in 1979.
According to the incumbent President of the Comunidade
de Bambolim, Reinar Luz de Sousa, it stayed there for 19 long
years and only in 1998 did it direct the High Court to dispose
off the matter within six months. In mid 1999 the High Court
ruled that Rs 2.50 be paid by the government of Goa to the
Comunidade for every square metre of acquired land. But sadly,
till date, the government has not paid the amount. As if to
add insult to injury, even thirty years after the land was
acquired, the government has been able to utilize a mere
thirty per cent of it.
In addition, a sizeable chunk of Comunidade terrain was
also acquired by the Central Public Works Department and other
Central agencies. "Our Comunidade is made toothless," says Luz
de Souza. Notwithstanding the sour taste in the Comunidade's
mouth, it holds the unique distinction of having two
categories of Gaunkars - the Vodle Gaunkars comprising the
Gonsalves, Monteiro and Luz de Souza families and the Dhakte
Gaunkars. The Dhakte Gaunkars are paid one-third of the zonn
paid to Vodle Gaunkars.
The jewel in Bambolim's crown is undisputedly the
Shrine of the Holy Cross. An unassuming cross it was that shot
Bambolim to fame. Revered by people of all faiths, hardly
anyone passes by without acknowledging its presence and
seeking its blessings with a bow of the head, a flying kiss, a
sharp loud honk or the sign of the cross. Most stop and pay
obeisance to the Holy Cross by offering garlands of flowers,
candles or cash. A shining illustration of Goa's celebrated
communal harmony it is. From being known as Bambolecho Khuris,
Milagrincho Khuris and later being Christened as Fulancho
Khuris, the Holy Cross stands in all simplicity as a beacon of
hope and faith.
Public
memory of the existence of the Cross goes back to atleast half
a century, although many say that it is much older. Who built
it is still a mystery, like the numerous miracles that are
attributed to the Holy Cross. Some say that it was built by
quarry workers at the time when there was hectic quarrying
(now abandoned) around the site of the cross. Many state that
it was one Albuquerque, a civil engineer from Ponda, who built
it while creating the Panjim-Agasaim mud road. Numerous
robberies along that stretch is also believed to be the reason
for erecting the Cross. Debatably, whosoever might have built
it, the cazkars, who harvested cashew apples in the long
disappeared thick forest, were the ones who began worshiping
the Cross. Villagers from neighbouring Siridao would at times
trudge up the hillock and recite the Rosary.
Perhaps the first
recorded miracle was that of Santana Afonso of Siridao.
Santana was in the terminal stage of cancer and all medical
hope was lost. In desperation, when she and her husband
Cassiano visited the Cross, she suddenly began writhing in
pain. While in pain she vowed to provide a canopy for the
Cross if she was cured. And cured she was, miraculously.
Santana kept her promise and the Cross got its first temporary
canopy. The covering kept changing over the years.
Beautification of the Cross came in 1969 through the officers
and jawans of the military camp set up in the vicinity. The
marble tiles plastered to the Cross by the military are still
intact. For the military camp, the Cross was their place of
worship.
Fr Raul Inacio
was the first parish priest of Bambolim to start offering
Masses at the Cross; followed by Fr Filipino Rebello who
cleaned up the near by area in order to accommodate more
faithful during Mass, and Fr Ariston Dias who began the
practice of celebrating a regular Mass every Sunday. Fr
Napolean Silveira then built a shamiana costing rupees three
lakh. Thanks to the untiring efforts and missionary zeal of
the former parish priest and president of Cofre do Fundo da
Cruz do Alto Bambolim Fr Freddy J Da Costa, a stately Shrine
was erected at the cost of Rs 70 lakh. Mention must be made of
the noted architect, Ralino de Souza, who designed the Shrine
for free. The foundation stone was laid by Archbishop Raul
Gonsalves on May 21, 1995, and the Shrine was completed,
blessed and inaugurated by the Archbishop on October 13, 1996.
The Shrine in fact is a Church,
as a Decree from the Archbishop of Goa and Daman, and
Patriarch of East Indies dated October 3, 1996, states that
"We do hereby formally and canonically constitute the said
building at the Holy Cross of Bambolim, Alto de Bambolim into
a Church, dedicated to the Holy Cross." The Decree further
state that "the new Church will be under the jurisdiction of
the Parish of Our Lady of Bethlehem, and under direct
responsibility of its Parish Priest." Though the temporal
administration is carried out by the Cofre do Funda da Cruz do
Alto Bambolim, it is 85-year-old Fr Sebastian R De Sousa and
the Sisters of Holy Family of Nazareth that look after the
Shrine. Daily after Fr Sebastian celebrates the Mass the
Blessed Sacrament is exposed for adoration. The exposition
which goes on non-stop till 8 pm ends with a blessing.
On Sundays Masses are
held at 6.30 am, 8.30 am and 5 pm. The tall clay image of
Jesus Christ behind the altar is specially crafted by Verodina
Ferrao. Devotees come in hordes from all over Goa, and even
from the neighbouring States of Mahara-shtra and Karnataka,
and sing the litany, backed by the violin. More and more
couples from all ends of Goa choose the Shrine to exchange
their marital vows. The feast of the Holy Cross is celebrated
with great pomp and solemnity every third Sunday of May and
the feast of Our Lady of Fatima is held on October
13.
For no fault of its
own, the fruits of Goa's developmental strides have
technically not reached Bambolim. It lies hardly a stone's
throw from the corridors of power in Panjim, but still has no
public transport, no post office, no high school and no
market. In size it is too small one may argue; but is 'small'
or 'big' any yardstick to deprive a village of its basic
requirements? Even the mud roads take took Bambolkars in and
out of dwelling from times immemorial were tarred only in
1982.
The plateau which
some 60 years ago hosted a thick forest, is no more. A new
township has taken birth having pushed the Bamboo hallis -
from which Bambolim is believed to have derived its name, into
oblivion. Bambolim owes its fame to the humble Holy Cross,
but may blame its ruin on the sophisticated overhead satellite
township. The forested plateau may have vanished, but the
balmy side of Bambolim will hopefully survive.
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